The Ultimate Makeup 101 Cheat Sheet

So last week I taught a makeup 101 class and today I emailed the class with this document I quickly put together for people on a budget who have no clue and are at a beginner level. Of course it was all explained further at the class but I thought a lot of people may find it useful anyway! I’ll be doing 101 videos for beginners soon, keep an eye on my Youtube channel, Umber beauty.

Here you go!

 

Main Points from Class and Product Recommendations
Primer- I recommended Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm as a primer for all Skin types, it can be found here http://www.boots.com/en/NIVEA-MEN-Sensitive-Post-Shave-Balm-100ml_1343/
apply it sparingly after moisturising, and give it a minute to sink it before you start your makeup.
Eye Primer- if you want your eyeshadows to last a long time, and if you have a problem with creasing eyeshadow, or oily eyelids, eye primer is a good idea. Elf does a decent cheap one, but the best are £15-25 from Too Faced, Urban Decay and Nars. Mac Paint Pots also serve as eye primers.
 
We used LA Girl Pro Conceal as both foundation and concealer, usually £5 in the UK and $3 un the US (which is what I do for myself and clients), it can be found at Beauty Base (real life shop in both westfield locations, hounslow treaty centre and website), Amazon, and absolute kolor. They also have an orange and a yellow corrector, which you can mix to make a light peach colour to correct under eye circles, cover stubble, and any other dark areas you wish to brighten. You correct under foundation or concealer. Their green corrector can be used sparingly to correct redness in the same way.
Blending corrector and concealer -can be done with any domed brush of any size, depending on the area of the face. I used this large Kabuki from ebay and the real techniques buffing brush from boots to blend by tapping and pressing into the skin, not swiping. For under the eyes and on spots I used a smaller brush from ELF http://www.elfcosmetics.com/p/flawless-concealer-brush?dept=tools-single-brushes.
Bronzer -can be use around the perimeter of the face to give warmth. My favourite bronzer is pro bronze fusion from Makeup Forever (expensive) and my favourite budget one is from ELF, they have many shades, go with your instinct in choosing a bronzer shade (if it turns out too dark use it lightly, its ok). You can use a blush brush for bronzer such as this one from real techniques http://www.boots.com/en/Real-Techniques-Blush-Brush-1407_1252046/
Blush -should go on the cheek, on the roundest or fattest part (no better way to say that springs to mind tbh). Be careful to not let is get to close to the eyes, nose or mouth. if blush is too bold for you, buff it with any clean brush to gently remove some of it.
Eyeshadow- For any look the easiest way to do it is to start with a base colour, usually a little lighter than your skin tone (if you have red, dark or uneven colours on your eyelids and are being a perfectionist, dab concealer on your lids and then apply your base shadow or any skin coloured powder). Then take a transition shade which can be just your bronzer or anything slightly darker than your skin and gently blend in into the crease of your eye. If you then choose to just apply mascara or liner, your eyes look nicely contoured. Or you can go ahead and put something dramatic on the lid, or darken the crease. But with these two bases, it will look blended and like you’ve worked much harder than you have.
Lips- We covered comfort vs longevity: the drier and more matte your lip colour (such as lip liner or liquid lipsticks that dry matte), the longer the wear time. To prevent cracked lips, apply a lot of lip balm on a few minutes before apply matte lip products, wipe off the balm gently, then apply. Your eyebrow or eyeliner angled brush doubles up as a lip brush to create super crisp lips if you are going for a very bold or dark colour. This a brush from ELF that is good for this http://www.elfcosmetics.com/p/small-angled-brush?dept=tools-single-brushes
For creamier, more moisturising lip products, you will need to reapply more often but the effect is usually a more natural look, which doesn’t look bad when it fades off if you forget to reapply. Matte colours can look odd when they wear off as they tend to be more patchy.
Eyebrows- the section of hairs that go upwards, close to your nose, need a very gentle application of small strokes of colour going upwards. Strokes should go int he direction of hair growth (same goes for if you want to draw any kind of hair on your face). The arch and tail of the brow can handle stronger lines. Try to erase the arch for a straighter more handsome brow, and brush hairs upwards to make it a little messy. For the neat, femme, instagram brow, build on your natural arch and brush hairs neatly into place.
Remember- any liquids or creams should be set with a powder, translucent powder is a good multi use product and it also can mattify lipsticks, and works on all skin tones (for example if your skin changes shades throughout the seasons). One Heck of a Blot by Soap and Glory and Stay Matte by Rimmel are good options, if you’re dry, use powders by gently tapping them on your face. If you’re oily, press powder into the skin.
Good highstreet/inexpensive buys:
Sleek Eyeshadow Palettes and blushes (in boots and superdrugs)
Morphe Eyeshadow Palettes (if you really want a ton of colours of high quality), only online. https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/morphe-brushes
Nyx eyebrow powder or microbrow pencil (boots website) and their lip products are great and come in cool colours
Rimmel Match Perfection foundation, gimme brow (brow gel)
Maybelline Fit Me Foundation (Matte version for oily skin and normal for dry skin)
L’Oreal True Match, and True Match Lumi foundations and powders
Best for Brown/Black skin: Black Opal Stick Foundation and the Pore Perfecting Liquid Foundation and Deluxe Finishing Powder (buy one shade lighter, it oxidises a bit)
NYC Liquid Eyeliner
ELF brightening powder, eye primer, blushes,  black brushes (white ones are poor quality), bronzers, prism eyeshadows, lip products, pretty much everything from ELF, especially in the black or ‘studio’ line.
Real Techniques and EcoTools- great brushes you can find on the highstreet but not as cheap as Elf which is only available online in the UK.
Clear mascara from Collection, NYC, Miss Sporty, etc, to set brows or to define lashes without adding colour. Can also use to brush hairs into place anywhere, i use it on my sideburns.
Maybelline generally has good mascaras.
A mascara that never smudges is not highstreet but its the only smudge and flake proof one I’ve found- Eyeko Sport Mascara. I use this under my eyes, but most people don’t have as much of an issue with smudging there, just my long lower lashes and eye shape probably.
Remember to throw away expired products or you risk infection- most products (including skincare) have a little symbol with says how many months to keep them once opened (i’ve attached a picture to show you the symbol). If its not on the packaging google it (e.g. how long do I keep liquid foundation?). Wash your brushes with baby shampoo- my favourite is johnson’s top to toe newborn baby wash, Dr Bronner’s Castille Soap Bars. For instant sanitising use isopropyl alcohol, No7 Brush cleanser, Elf brush cleaner, spray onto the brush and wipe on paper towels. These can also be used to wipe any makeup products you have, i spray my eyeshadows with alcohol and give them a quick wipe. Same with most of my other makeup. Exp_date.jpg

Beauty Review September 2015

Beauty Review September 2015

Hello beauties!

I’ve posted a review of everything I’ve tried in the last month, most of these were great and I would call them favourites!

The most important things for me were skincare, and the Artemis Oil at £60 is a proper splurge but it is THE BEST thing I’ve ever done for my skin. Using that along with the Boots £3.59 mask every other day, my skin has been in great shape.

Of course I had some makeup favourites too! Watch the video below to get the low down on my month, and check out the description box for full info on the products.